Earthquakes, Civil War and the Things Before

Early on the morning of 9th November, as the Fajr morning call to prayer was ringing out, we experienced our first noticeable earthquake in Syria.  Earthquakes are not uncommon here, and most are not felt at all.  However there are still several measuring more than 4 in the Richter scale every year.  This one had a magnitude somewhere around 5 and was experienced by us as an eerie shaking of our room which made the coat hangers in the wardrobe rattle, but nothing more dramatic.  It was an interesting experience for us who have not lived in places where seismic activity is normal, but for our staff and many of the residents in Aleppo it was a scary reminder of the series of earthquakes measuring up to 7.8 that struck the city on 6th February this year.  Whilst this one lasted only a few seconds, it was enough of a shock to many to encourage them to grab their children and run out into the street in case a stronger quake followed.  Talking to our colleagues in the office later that morning it was clear that although they were relieved that it had only been small and could laugh about it, there is still a deep fear in many of them that they could experience another big one and that this is something they live with.

In the last month we have travelled across the country a few times and seen the evidence of the other big event that scars the lives of everyone here: the civil war. The war rumbles on away from the main population centres, but even if active fighting is far in the distance, the effects of this conflict are very much on display.  In Aleppo there are parts of the city that are largely destroyed and abandoned, but life goes on for most of the city as a whole.  

But as you drive south on the main highway towards Damascus, the route passes through ghost towns of destroyed and abandoned apartment blocks, factories, roadside restaurants and theme parks.  Here were towns that were full of life, hosting tourists and Syrians living normal lives, where now only military checkpoints and roadside fuel vendors are the only signs of human life.

However, despite these stark reminders of what this country has experienced over the last decade and more, some parts remain untouched.  Recently we were fortunate to join our international colleagues for an overnight retreat at the Monastery of St. Moses (Mar Musa) in the mountains north of Damascus.  Driving through the desert into barren hills, there was no sign of anything much, and then the road turns north and there up on the hillside is a 6th century monastery, blending into the light brown rock.  The only approach to the monastery is up a flight of stairs ensuring that even in the cool November mountain air, everyone arrives at the door sweating and short of breath!

The origins of monastery date back to the founding on the site of an old Roman lookout post by a monk from Ethiopia, and includes a chapel containing 11th century frescos.  These days a small community of men and women provide hospitality to pilgrims and visitors and promote dialogue between different groups, especially Muslims and Christians.  The accommodation is quite basic (mattresses on the floor) and the food simple, but the hospitality is warm and the peaceful setting in the mountains, with the milky way stretching out and no motor vehicles for miles, is in stark contrast to the noise and busyness of the cities.

Despite the ever present reminders of war and the challenges suffered by people here, it was good to see another reminder of how much rich history and culture this place has. We hope that the future brings the recovery and rebuilding that is required to bring some of this history back to life, and to pave the way so that more people can enjoy living and visiting here once again. 

Thank you so much for reading! Please do stay in touch. We hope to soon move from our Hotel into a rented apartment in a different part of Aleppo, which will be really good! 

With lots of love, Steve & Lindsay